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OVERTAKE Tune the garage, not the ego

After the Tuning update, buy the part that keeps you in the lane you chose.

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OVERTAKE Garage Tuning Guide

The February 2026 patch put [TUNING!] on the OVERTAKE title and turned the garage from a light upgrade menu into the second half of the game. Highway time still pays. Parts now decide whether you can collect that pay. This guide is spend order, handling versus top speed, and what not to touch until you can restart in Neutral. Patch context lives on the Tuning update page. Ranked shells live on the car tier list.

You should already have codes claimed and a stall recovery from manual transmission. Tuning a car you cannot restart is decorating a paperweight.

What the garage is for

Tuning is not a beauty contest. Custom Color is a 30 Robux pass for paint. Radio is 50 Robux for X. Neither one changes a gap. Garage cash should buy grip, brakes, and a powerband you can shift. If a part only looks louder on a deserted straight, it is last.

EMZ Games still describes the loop as earn cash and customize endless combinations. After Tuning, “endless” means you can brick the handling if you slam power onto stock tires. Treat each purchase as a highway test, not a collection.

Spend order

  1. Brakes and tires / grip. You make money by not hitting the car you just passed. Stopping and turning are the multiplier. See how to overtake.
  2. Stability / steering response. A nervous front end feels “fast” and then dumps you into AI. Soften until the car stays in the lane you picked.
  3. Mid-range power. Overtakes happen at traffic speed, not at a theoretical top end. Buy pull where you actually pass.
  4. Top speed last. Empty asphalt is rare in a 15-player no-hesi mix. A higher limiter that you only see after a crash reset is a trophy.
  5. Cosmetic aero and paint. After the car is honest. The 30 Robux color pass waits.

Exact part names move with patches; the upgrades page is the shopping list that tracks current labels. Use that list with this order, not instead of it.

Handling versus top speed

Handling is the ability to take a gap and straighten without a correction that clips someone. Top speed is a number you hit when nobody is around. OVERTAKE almost never gives you nobody. If a tune makes you lift later than your eyes want, it is too much power or too little grip.

Test in traffic, not in a lot. A lot cannot show a near-miss. Drive the same interchange stock, then with one part, then with two. If the multiplier dies more often, revert. Tuning is allowed to go backwards.

Downshifts with Q should still land in a usable band. If a power part made first-gear launches even dumber, remember you still never start in first. Neutral, F, throttle, E. Parts did not rewrite controls.

Cars to tune first

Tune the car you can already drive. That is usually a starter shell, not a pack car you bought because chat said it was meta. Muscle Pack (BULL Devious, CHARRIOT M8, 25,000 cash) and JDM Pack (one moderated JDM name, 10,000 cash) add different weight and power. They still crash. They still reset the multiplier. Buy them from car packs after the starter tune is stable, then apply the same spend order — do not copy a stranger’s max-speed screenshot.

VIP (500 Robux, 50% cash, tag, 25,000 cash) does not replace tuning. It multiplies whatever rate your tune can keep alive. Group/Premium 10% is the same idea at a smaller slice. Run the cash boost tool after you know your post-tune rate, not before.

Session test plan

Park, open the garage, buy one category. Close the menu (R if the HUD sticks). Restart in Neutral so you are not testing from a stall. Take a five-minute overtake block. If you hit something you used to miss, the part failed even if the speedo is happier.

Do not retune mid-combo. Shop focus eats WASD the same way the Codes tab does — how to redeem already taught that lesson. Do not test a new brake part while also fighting auto clutch OFF. One variable.

If a patch shuffles prices, check updates before you sell yourself dry. The Tuning-era garage is the live one; old YouTube prices lie.

What not to do

Do not dump every code into a single top-speed slider. Do not copy a drift tune into a no-hesi highway. Do not buy Radio or paint because the garage looks empty. Do not assume scripts will replace a bad spend order — client toys are a different conversation on car scripts, and they will not teach you to lift.

Buy the part that keeps the car in the lane you chose, not the part that looks fastest on a deserted straight.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Quick answers for highway runs, codes, and tuning.

What should I buy first in the OVERTAKE garage?

Grip and brakes, then stability, then mid-range power. Top speed last. The labeled list is upgrades. Technique is how to overtake.

Should I tune a pack car immediately?

Tune a starter you can restart first. Muscle and JDM packs wait until Neutral + F is automatic.

Does VIP change which parts I should buy?

No. VIP multiplies cash you already earn. Keep the same spend order, then check the cash boost tool and VIP.

Why did my car feel worse after a power part?

You added speed without grip. Revert and follow this page. Confirm you still start in Neutral using manual transmission.

Is Custom Color a performance upgrade?

No. It is a 30 Robux paint pass. Radio is 50 Robux on **X**. Neither one protects a multiplier. Spend code cash on parts.

Where do I read what the Tuning patch changed?

The Tuning update notes, then this spend order, then the tier list for which shells deserve the cash.